Just keep a stash of healthy butterflies around, and occasionally get one to flap its wings.

Interesting, thanks for the info. I didn’t know about the GE fork.

Re: Lutris and RBR, it’s just how it worked out. When I originally set it up, it wouldn’t work properly when I tried running the install via proton and I could only get it to launch with Lutris and WINE. Could be things have changed, last time I set it up was like 2023 or something. I just ran into the problem a few months back when trying to update.

For now I did set up a windows partition for some of this stuff (WRC 10, Gens, AC Rally, RBR, Moza firmware updates), but I just hate booting into it.

Mainly it’s the Nacon WRC games. 7, 8, 9, 10, Generations, none of them work in Linux with Moza. The games just have poor wheel detection. Not much to be done for now, even lawstorant (Boxflat developer, the Moza software for Linux) apparently keeps a windows partition to play those.

A few other minor issues as well. AMS2 works, but I have to configure the wheel manually in-game every time I want to play it. And RallySimFans RBR works great, but updating it is a nightmare with Lutris, it’s literally easier to fully uninstall and reinstall when there’s an update.

I’ve got a Moza R5 and it’s fine for most stuff (my old wheel was a Thrustmaster TMX Pro that didn’t work in Linux at all).

But it’s still got problems with the WRC games which sucks because they’re great and I rally more than race.

AC Rally seems to have started supporting it as of the latest update but I haven’t gotten around to testing it. It didn’t detect the wheel on 0.1 release.

In all it’s not totally bad, just frustrating at times.

Not daily, but sim racing. Game and peripheral support is all over the place. Wheels/wheelbases generally need Windows to update firmware or adjust features.

Some games will detect wheel, pedals, handbrake, etc. no prob in Windows but not at all in Linux. Certain games need reg fixes in Windows that are more complicated to apply in Linux.

It’s a pain, and the best supported wheel is also one of the cheapest/poorest quality ones on the market (Logitech G29). If you have higher end DD gear or mix and match stuff, it can get complicated or unviable.

Been playing through Shin Megami Tensei: Nocturne remaster. It’s been something of a white whale for me as I missed it in the PS2 era despite really enjoying Digital Devil Saga 1 and 2.

Also enjoying Ball x Pit here and there.

How do I check when the last power outage was if it’s connected to a UPS?

Would absolutely hang on my wall, that’s fantastic.

No illusions on my part. RAID5 NAS with periodic disk archive backups.

• Books
• Audiobooks
• Retro game ROMs
• FLAC music collection
• Movies, TV, and anime series

Got what I need locally and intend to keep it that way. I’m sick of sites like Amazon with “Buy Now” buttons that are really “rent now via restrictive terms and only via devices we approve until we decide you no longer need access.”

Neat write up.

Power consumption is a big reason I ditched my full size server for an AMD mini-PC. Way more efficient with a tdp of 25w, and idles pretty low (sub-10w, I forget the exact wattage).

I’m not really doing a lot with it, it’s mostly for Plex and Jellyfin, and I’ve got a separate VM hosting home assistant. It’s running Proxmox, and plenty of headroom if I needed more VMs or containers.

I use an AMD mini-PC with Ryzen 5700u, 32GB RAM, connected with my home NAS. Similar software stack, the server is hosted via Proxmox, no issues.

I have a Zigbee antenna. Will have to double check. I’m pretty sure the lights work with the antenna, but scenes are only possible if you’ve integrated them (generally via hue through something like Homekit).

This is why it’s a great idea to refuse to install everything that’s possible, including smart switches, cameras, lights etc. that rely on the good will of some company to keep running.

Even then you can get fucked over. I’ve used Hue smart lights for years, and back when I bought them, you didn’t need an account to use them, just an app and network connection. Years later, they forced an online login for the app, requiring you to be online to interface with the bulbs. You can kind of work around it with Home Assistant, but you still need the account now to add the bulbs, and I don’t think scenes work without an account either now.

Linux install: maybe 10 or 15 minutes tops from booting USB to desktop access, login is local, network connection is optional.

Rsync is great. I’ve been using it to back up my book library from my local Calibre collection to my NAS for years, it’s absurdly simple and convenient. Plus, -ruv lets me ignore unchanged files and backup recursively, and if I clean up locally and need that replicated, just need to add —delete.

Even better:

sudo apt update && sudo apt upgrade -y

These are great. I love your use of perspective.

Eww gross.

If it was a problem with the microwave function I don’t think I’d have bothered. I’m terrible at repairing things and break most things worse than they were before. But it was the lightbulb acting up (the underside one, we’ve got an over-range mounted unit).

In this case I had the circuit diagram and multiple YouTube videos to lean on. Thankfully the thyristor is big, because I’m terrible at soldering, but it worked out.

It’s possible. A lot of things merge the info and man pages now if both are installed, that could be the case here. Or Mac just documents it further.