

I’m pretty sure it’s the SSL seller lobby just wanting more money, tbh. Selling snake oil security.
And selling “certificate automation” tools.
Collector of social media accounts. Speaks 🇬🇧 and 🇩🇪.


I’m pretty sure it’s the SSL seller lobby just wanting more money, tbh. Selling snake oil security.
And selling “certificate automation” tools.


The point is, if the certificate gets stolen, there’s no GOOD mechanism for marking it bad.
That’s what OCSP is for. Only Google isn’t playing along as per that wiki entry.
Settings --> Posts --> Interaction Bar
Then remove the combined up/down thingy and add the separate up and down chips. They show separate numbers.
Then do the same thing under Settings --> Comments --> Interaction Bar.
Mlem - replaced Voyager for me.


I usually boot the System-Rescue CD (can also boot from USB) and use GPartEd to resize partitions.
What external storage are you using? Is it the same that worked so flawlessly on your PS5?
Because I’ve recently bought some M.2 SSD enclosures with a Realtek RTL9210B chip and those seem to be buggy in that the enclosure goes offline for a few seconds after some random time (hours to days).
And I only noticed it because of random disconnect notifications about the one I use for Time Machine.
Removed by mod


But will they continue to moderate content by German leftist standards?


Or a better SD card. I’ve used my various Raspberrys with SD cards for years without any issues. The only single incident I’ve had was a card turning read-only. Which I’ve only noticed because system updates were gone after a reboot. But all the main data was still there and accessible. And a simple clone to a new card followed by fsck restored full functionality in the Pi again.
That old laptop’s CPU and TPM are “not supported” by Win11. And also, Win10 already didn’t run that smoothly on it - so, I didn’t even try to hack Win11 onto it.
Read my text again. This is my only Windows laptop - and it needs to be actual Windows for all the obscure firmware update tools of some devices I have flying around.
Everything else in my household is either Linux or MacOS.
I took the opportunity to “downgrade” to Windows 7. My old HP laptop (which is specifically for a few specialty Windows-only apps) feels double as fast now compared to Windows 10 before. And with the help of LegacyUpdates.net and VxKex-NEXT (provides the very few Windows 10 API calls so you can even run most Win10-only apps on Win7) you get a pretty nice and lean system.


Just finished Powerwash Simulator 2. Now trying to get my The Outer Worlds savegame from the Switch working on the Steam Deck to play the few DLC missions I skipped back then.


The Junkers boiler at my previous place had an emergency mode where it was heating when the contacts were open. Even their simplest thermostats put a load on the wires depending on how much heat is required - so it doesn’t go full blast when you are only slightly under the target temperature.
So, this all depends on your specific boiler. While it might work with a simple relay, it might be far from optimal in terms of energy efficiency and wear&tear of the boiler.


The product is no longer available for sale.


Despite the name it’s not a simple on/off that can be done with a relay. Those 2 wires also provide power to the thermostat unit. I’d first try to find more information about how these thermostats report demand to the boiler before using a relay.
I’ve also seen someone that simply replaced the NTC/PTC on their existing thermostat with some ESP circuit so they basically controlled what the thermostat “sees”. Want more heat? Tell the thermostat that it’s 5℃ in the room. Want the boiler to stop? Simulate a cozy 30℃.


That’s a Honeywell T87G1006 “On/Off” thermostat. “On/Off” meaning that it can signal to the boiler whether more heat is needed or not. Boilers of that time may also be compatible with the OpenTherm protocol as there’s a similar model that also speaks OpenTherm.
The easiest way to go about this is probably to look for a more modern thermostat that’s compatible with your boiler but also provides some interface for remote control from your Home Assistant.


Open-source Mbrowser 52.2, packed with security features
Does anyone know where to find this?
EDIT: All I can find are the user agent strings which indicate that this might be some IBM product. Also, there’s rv:52.0 in the environment part, but IBM Mbrowser/60.5.1 in the engines part - so the actual version of the browser component might be 60.5.1 in this case, not 52.x. (There’s also a rv:60.0 with Mbrowser/60.9.0 - no IBM this time.)
Then there’s the older way of checking CRLs which any tool of the past few decades should support.