

It’s in the FAQs.


It’s in the FAQs.


It comes with 30 days of support, after that they charge rent.
I’m not “comparing on hardware”, because there is no comparison. This hardware is trash. It’s a paperweight.
The WiFI router your ISP gives you with your service probably has more compute power. Which is what this company should be doing, giving this computer away for free with the support subscription.


Hmm…

A Celeron quad core? Two GB of RAM?! 32GB hard drive? a 1.0MP camera?!

FOR $1300?! US dollars?
WOW! is right, as in “Wow, what a racket”.
This is a joke, right? This is a joke product. These hardware specs were laughable in 2010. This system would’ve struggled to run XP SP3. Did they pull these computers from the dead husk of Circuit City? Where did they even find a 1.0MP camera module at?
If that’s not a joke it’s highway robbery. For that kind of money it better stop bullets, fold my laundry, and make coffee before I ask for it.
This computer isn’t worth $130. In fact it’s not worth $13. They should be paying people to take this hardware from them, for scrap.


Leaving a stray cart in the parking lot is very antisocial behavior.


I want to live in a world where people return the shopping carts, therefore I do it myself. If you don’t, you’re an antisocial prick.
Well you can always bake your own. I actually do this occasionally for some LTS versions - DVDs are more shelf-stable than USB drives. In particular I like to keep a live gparted build around, it’s a great tool for its intended purpose and also a decent recovery environment.
Nonsense, you can run Linux on the PS5, and you don’t need the plastic donut anymore.
Control.


There is a JB Weld UV glue product that comes with a UV LED attached:
https://www.jbweld.com/product/superweld-light-activated
It’s a blend, not pure UV resin, that will harden quickly where the light hits it but will also slowly cure without UV exposure, so the inner parts of the joint will harden over time.
I use this and I’ve found that it is almost as good as standard 2-part epoxy in most cases, and easier to use.


It’s a very clear visualization. I do agree that some indication of the scale/activity of the instances would be a nice addition.
I also think you should add a date, as the relationships and active servers will likely change over time. If you keep it up, eventually you’ll have a collection that illustrates the changes.
I need to write down some notes to keep track of the methods I use to write down notes of things I need to keep track of…


I generally feel more comfortable having /home as a separate partition. It makes editing my partitions with external tools like gparted very easy, and I can just wipe /root whenever I like without having to think too much about. Also, are we considering btrfs to be reliable now? Last time I looked at it, it was still in the prototype/unstable phase and I chose ZFS for my server instead.
Another reason I keep /home separate is that I have systems with multiple Linux versions installed. Each has their own /root, and they share /boot, /swap and /home.


You’re welcome, and yeah growing pains every time with a new install. But you do it a little better each time.
One recommendation - when you do reinstall, don’t use the default/automatic partitioning. Manually set up your /home directory as a separate partition from /root. This lets you reinstall the OS without having to touch your user files. When you reinstall again, all you have to do is select the existing /home partition to use as the new install’s home (and make sure not to format it). This makes your install a lot more flexible, and your OS a lot more disposable.
If you do manual partition configuration, don’t forget to also create a /swap partition that is at least 1.5x the size of your RAM.


I could probably backup most of my important data to a flash drive but I’d rather not.
You should ALWAYS back up any important/irreplaceable data before making any changes to your hard drives, even if you think the risk is low. Accidents happen.
You can move the drive from one slot to the other, the drive’s UUID should not change. You’ll just need to change the boot drive selected in UEFI. Physically swapping the drives will be faster, easier and less failure-prone than trying to move your boot and root partitions between drives.
For editing drive formats and partitions, the best tool is gparted: https://gparted.org/
It’s convenient to have gparted installed on a USB drive so that you can live boot it and use it to make changes to the system drive(s). With gparted you can simply erase the Windows drive and create a new partition formatted for Linux (probably ext4).
If you are not already familiar with editing disk partitions and formats, you should read some tutorials first: https://gparted.org/articles.php
As for encryption, some Linux installers have this as a selectable option during the install process. If Mint does, you should consider reinstalling anyway to use that, as you are more likely to have it working properly.
If you just want to encrypt your data partition(s) you can implement LUKS with cryptsetup: https://linuxvox.com/blog/linux-luks-encryption/
Note that this is the most basic use, it does not cover FDE. If you want to also encrypt /boot so that your computer will not start without being unlocked, that is more complicated to set up:
!! YOU SHOULD READ A LOT OF INFORMATION BEFORE ATTEMPTING THIS !!
https://askubuntu.com/questions/1470391/luks-tpm2-auto-unlock-at-boot-systemd-cryptenroll
https://cryptsetup-team.pages.debian.net/cryptsetup/encrypted-boot.html
Be aware that doing anything wrong in this process is likely to leave you with an unbootable system, and unable to recover any data from the encrypted partition/drive. You need to be sure that the steps you’re going to take are relevant for your hardware and OS before you start, and that you have all of the necessary utilities installed.
Again, if Mint has a selectable option for this in its installer, you will have much better chances of success reinstalling with that.
Don’t skip the backup.


This is what organic growth looks like. It spreads in fits and starts, bits of it clump together and pile up, pieces of it separate and take on life of their own or die. When part of it rots (hexbear) the larger organism cuts it off to limit the spread of disease.
Lemmy (and more generally, ActivityPub) is growing, not like a rose bush, but like a field of grass. Some pieces of it are blooming, some pieces of it are dying, some pieces are adapting to different environments, but the spread is inexorable and the horizon unlimited.
If you want to see what the field is like on the other side of that hill, well it won’t just come to you, you’ll have to get up and go to it.


Your first concern should be your boundary firewall. You should have all ports closed except the ones that you are definitely using for external services. You should know which ports you have open and why, and what traffic, how much and how often you expect to see on those ports (8080 will have regular Internet use traffic, but your reverse proxy port should only have traffic when you’re away from home and actively using it), and you should monitor that traffic at the firewall every so often, and especially when you make changes to your network. Closed ports should be configured to drop packets rather than respond that the port is closed (stealth mode). On a home network, preventing unwanted incoming connections will protect you from the majority of malicious activity. It’s the most effective single thing you can focus on.
The next thing would be to separate untrusted devices onto dedicated VLANs. This would be for IoT devices, gaming consoles, “smart” appliances, anything that connects to the Internet whose software you don’t have control over. They get isolated on a VLAN that only connects to the Internet and doesn’t allow local connections to devices on other VLANs, so the rest of your network doesn’t exist as far as they’re concerned. This should cut down on things like “smart” appliances taking inventory of your home network and reporting it back to the manufacturer’s servers.
If you do these two things, and you’ve got your reverse proxy configured properly so that other people can’t break into it, you should minimize unwanted connections to your network and your server/containers should be fine with default internal firewall policies. The only reason you would need to do more is if you expect a direct/intentional attack by a motivated hacker, but in that case there’s not much you can do unless you’re an expert.
If you want to go further, try implementing the community version of runZero:
https://www.runzero.com/platform/community-edition/
https://help.runzero.com/docs/self-hosting/
https://www.cisa.gov/resources-tools/services/runzero-community-edition
This is a network visibility tool that will discover and identify devices. To get a really complete look, you would run it from inside your network and deal with anything that you don’t think should be accessible, then run it again from outside your network to see what a potential attacker would see.


Well, let me ask you a related question: do you think it is acceptable to ban books? Why or why not?


I have no objection to sites like Polymarket being made illegal. That is not the argument.
I don’t approve of people using Polymarket, but I would fight for their right to access the website without censorship.
The government can declare a business like Polymarket to be illegal, that’s fine. Take action against Polymarket directly. The government dictating which sites a citizen can or cannot access is not fine. It is exactly the same as what China does with the Great Firewall.


Control is never relinquished voluntarily, it only expands. If the government has the power to block access to one site they will do it with more, for increasingly less justifiable reasons, until they eventually don’t bother justifying it at all.
Government censorship is not permissible in a free society, period.
OK, so the correct thing to do in this situation is tuck the cart behind or hook the wheels over a parking barrier/curb, or if there’s no other option tip the cart onto its back/handle side. Don’t just leave the cart loose rolling around. I’ve seen a gust of wind blow a loose cart into a parked car and smash the brake light cover out.
But also, if you’re physically disabled to this level how are you using the shopping cart in the first place?